Shanghainese food without fluff.

Tucked away in one of pre-war shop houses opposite the iconic Tiong Bahru Market, Shanghai Nan Xiang Xiao Long is a nice alternative to the various crowded "xiao long bao and la mian" branches in town.Maybe because it is located in an aged neighbourhood, it has an idyllic old world charm to it. Indeed, it is a nice getaway for those who want to escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Shanghai Nan Xiao Xiao Long has a very modest and simple set-up. Its service, while decent, is nothing to shout about.

But, given that the restaurant does not impose the 10% service charge (there is, however, a 50-cents miscellaneous fee for each customer), it would be unreasonable to expect too much.

Even though it lacks in the posh nosh department, Shanghai Nan Xiang Xiao Long makes it up with its authentic and lip-smacking Shanghainese dishes. Indeed, just judging by the large numbers of native Chinese customers, one can almost be sure that this is one of the best Shanghainese restaurants in town.

Its Shanghinese chef makes some of the best xiao long baos ("little steamed dumplings") in Singapore. The xiao long baos ($3.60 for an order of 6) have the three essential qualities – thin skin that is strong enough to hold the soup, nicely marinated meat, and the abundant soup that provides a juicy treat with the first bit.

Besides the dumplings, the pork ribs la mian ("hand-pulled noodles", $4.50) is also a must-try. One can either have the noodles with broth, or try the dry version where the chewy noodles are well favored with the sauce of the braised pork ribs.

The Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup ($2) and Shanghai Fried Rice Flour Cake ($5) are also good bets. There is also the choice of glutinous rice ball ($1.50) or pan-fried red bean pancake (3.50) for dessert.

Having been around since early 2004, the shop has recently expanded its menu, and one of the new items served is the Chicken Chop Rice Flour Cake ($5.50). It comes with a big piece of breaded chicken breast and a generous portion of rice flour cake cooked with the chef's "special sauce" – the waiter was unable to reveal the ingredients in the sauce when asked. Perhaps because the dish was not exactly a traditional Shanghai dish, the chef's execution failed to impress.

While I really enjoyed the juicy and tender chicken, I was not particularly taken by the "special sauce" that reminded me of the Indonesian sweet soy sauce Ketjap Manis and left a strange taste in the mouth.

Despite its rather lackluster chicken chop, Shanghai Nan Xiang Xiao Long is still a restaurant worth visiting. But, perhaps it would be a while before I venture beyond its traditional Shanghainese dishes. - peiyun